Champagne
Great champagnes
The traditional use of champagne dates back to well before the Middle Ages, to the 5th century BC. At that time, the first baptized Frankish king, Clovis, was crowned in Reims Cathedral. The wines used for his coronation were champagne. A few centuries later, this beverage became the wine of choice for all the important events of the French crown, and even for historic moments around the world. In this guide, we look back at the history of the great champagnes, how this festive beverage is made and our selection of the best producers
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History of champagne wine
Wine has been used in the celebration of the Eucharist since the earliest days of Christianity. But champagne entered the history books with the baptism and coronation of the first king of France, Clovis, in 496 BC. Saint Rémi, bishop of Reims, anointed the monarch. Champagne wines were consecrated on this day. A few centuries later, the official union between the Queen of Navarre, Countess of Champagne, and Philip IV the Fair, King of France, sealed the eternal link between Champagne and the crown of France. From 898 to 1825, the coronation of the kings of France took place in the heart of Champagne. Champagne wines were present in large quantities at these banquets, and it was even customary to offer them to any royal visitor to the region. Similarly, in the 18th century, during the French Revolution, they were the only drinks served to celebrate the culmination of this period of political and social upheaval. The same fizzy beverage became an essential part of the great moments in history, uniting the European powers that took part in the Congress of Vienna between September 1814 and June 1815. It was also drunk at the signing of major treaties, such as the Maastricht Treaty, and at major exhibitions. Its fame is so undisputed that it's inconceivable not to pour champagne on the happy occasions of life and special achievements. The inaugural flights of Concorde, the conquest of Annapurna and Everest, the opening of the Channel Tunnel, motor racing... are all celebrated with champagne. Opening a bottle of this excellent wine is not reserved for celebrations. Philippe d'Orléans asked for this wine before his appearance before the Revolutionary Court. Czarist troops defeated by Napoleon also drowned their sorrows in this sparkling beverage
The champagne-making process
From the 7th to the 17th century, Champagne wine was not sparkling. Legend has it that it was the blessed monk Dom Pérignon who invented the process for making sparkling wine. But if history is anything to go by, the "Maison Ruinart" was the first to offer the sparkling version of Champagne wine in 1729. In fact, Champagne is the result of blending basic wines from three grape varieties(chardonnay, pinot noir and meunier). They are cultivated in numerous vineyards, up to a hundred basic wines. The idea is to ensure the consistency of non-vintage champagne. White champagnes made from 100% Chardonnay are lively, elegant and delicate, with good ageing potential. They become more structured with the addition of Pinot Noir, while the addition of Meunier gives them fruity and floral notes. To make champagne, producers use the "méthode champenoise". The wine is placed in a full-glass bottle. A dose of sugar and yeast is added to create bubbles. The cork is not yet placed in the bottle. The wine is then left to age in the cellars for 18 months to over 10 years, depending on the champagne. If there is no riddling machine, the bottles are turned slightly every day to bring the sediment of the lees to the top of the bottle. The machines then freeze the neck of the bottle. They then remove the neck, and the lees escape under the effect of the pressure inside the bottle. They may add a sugar or syrup solution before corking the bottle. The champagne is then ready for sale
Champagne classification
Unlike Bordeaux wines, which are classified by region, town, village and parcel, Champagne is classified according to crus and the village in which the grapes are grown. There are also a myriad of champagne brands. Some products are produced by a single Champagne house, while others are grown by cooperatives or several producers. In all cases, there are big-brand champagnes such as Moet et Chandon/Dom Pérignon, Cristal/Roederer, Pol Roger/Winston, etc
The main champagne producers
-Moet et Chandon / Dom Pérignon: Dom Pérignon is certainly the most influential name in champagne history. Moet Chandon bought the right to use the name in the 19th century. Since then, the House has enjoyed a boom in sales and exported its champagnes all over the world. It created the first Cuvée Prestige in 1936 from a 1921 vintage champagne. This producer's champagnes are distinguished by their fine bubbles, lightness and suppleness.
-Armand de Brignac: the Cathier family, producers of this prestigious cuvée, have been cultivating the family vineyard since 1763. It is one of the oldest champagne cellars. Champagne is made from the most exquisite wine of each harvest. Each bottle sold by this producer is also a true work of art, with hand-polished pewter or gold-plated labels. The Armand de Brignac bottle has become a flagship creation for this Maison thanks in part to the favor of rapper Jay Z, who bought the distribution company in 2014.
-Roederer: This champagne house owns 240 ha of mainly grand cru and premier cru vineyards. It began exporting its wines to the United States and Russia in the 1870s. In that year, Louis Roederer launched his prestige cuvée Cristal, the house's most emblematic cuvée, created for Tsar Alexander II. It was also the first prestige cuvée in the history of champagnes. This sparkling wine is distinguished by its unique, unctuous, gourmet and slightly acidic quality.
-Krug: founded in 1843 by Joseph Krug, is the only House to produce 5 prestige cuvées. Each year, it produces champagnes of exceptional quality that fully express the character of their terroirs. These are sparkling wines of singular character, rich, fruity, fine and elegant, with remarkable longevity.
-Laurent Perrier: this company belongs to the Laurent-Perrier group, which owns other leading brands such as Salon Champagne, De Castellane and Delamotte. The group also acquired Château Malakoff in 2004. Its champagnes are distinguished by their timeless character, elegant, fresh, pure and full-bodied, with exceptional length on the palate.
-Salon: this champagne house, founded in 1820, belongs to the Laurent-Perrier group. The brand's production is very limited. Much of it is exported to Japan. This exceptional grand cru has a complex nose and an elegant, long, fine palate.
-Perriet Jouet: this company was founded in 1811 in the heart of Champagne. After two centuries, Perriet Jouet's winegrowing heritage extends over 65 hectares, mainly planted with Pinot Noir. Its champagnes express floral elegance, a luxurious, balanced sip and a noble persistence on the finish.
-Jacques Selosse: Anselme Selosse's ancestors grew vines, but his father has been making and marketing his own champagne since 1959. His champagnes have complex and varied aromas, enigmatic flavors, impeccable balance and astonishing length.
-Taittinger: Jacques Fourneaux founded this house in 1734. Today, his great-grandchildren manage this 288-hectare vineyard. It produces elegant, fine and delicate champagnes.
-Agrapart et fils: Arthur Agrapart founded this house at the end of the 19th century. Today, the 12-hectare vineyard produces champagnes with a fine balance between mineral finesse and complex aromas.
-Bollinger: Founded in 1829, this family-run house produces intense, vibrant champagnes that are gourmand and long on the palate.
-Egly ouriet: Founded in 1945, this house cultivates 10 hectares of vines. Its champagnes express complexity and power, with the right balance on the palate and a burst of fruity and mineral flavors.
-De Venoge: Founded in 1837, De Venoge is now owned by BBC. It is known for its collection of old vintages in a unique style, with pleasant fruity aromas, beautiful notes of fruit and minerality, and a tonic, long finish.
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