Domain Comtes Lafon Montrachet 2009


The 2009 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Montrachet is a white Burgundy wine from the Montrachet Grand Cru. Produced by Domaine des Comtes Lafon, it is crafted exclusively from Chardonnay, originating from the Montrachet parcel. The Wine Advocate awards it 96/100, highlighting its depth, rich fruit and power, with maturity anticipated from 2016. Jancis Robinson rates it 18/20 and recommends drinking between 2018 and 2026, describing a broad palate with notes of cream, pastry and caramel, lifted by a fresh acidity.
stock: 2
Special Price €3,540.00 €2,950.00 Regular Price €4,080.00 €3,400.00
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La bouteille proposée

Size
Bottle (75cl)
Packaging
Original Wooden Case
Label Condition
Perfect
Fill Level
Perfect
Capsule Condition
Perfect

Identité du vin

Couleur
White
Pays
France
Région
Bourgogne
Appellation
Puligny Montrachet
Producteur / Domaine
Domaine des Comtes Lafon
Parcelle / Cru
Montrachet
Millésime
2009

Cépage et assemblage

Grape Variety
100% Chardonnay
Domaine

Domaine des Comtes Lafon

The Domaine des Comtes Lafon is a family-run estate based in Meursault, in the heart of the Côte de Beaune. Its vineyards are spread across Meursault, Volnay, Monthélie and Chassagne-Montrachet, notably including plots in Meursault’s Premier Cru vineyards and Montrachet’s Grand Cru vineyard. The estate is currently run by Léa and Pierre Lafon, whilst Jérôme Delassus is listed as cellar master.

Owner
GFA du Domaine des Comtes Lafon (famille Lafon)
Maître de chais
Jérôme Delassus

Histoire du domaine

The estate’s history is linked to Jules Lafon, a native of Tarn-et-Garonne, who was transferred to Dijon in 1887 as part of his role at the Administration of Registration, Estates and Stamps. In 1894, he married Marie Boch, who came from a family of wine-growers and merchants in Meursault, marking the start of his involvement in the village’s wine industry. Having become a lawyer, Jules Lafon was granted the title of Papal Count in 1918, which would give the estate its name. He gradually acquired several Meursault Premier Crus, including Genevrières, Perrières and Charmes, as well as a plot in Montrachet in 1918. As mayor of Meursault, he played a part in reviving the Paulée de Meursault in 1923, before giving up his legal practice in 1931 to devote himself to the estate. Following his death in 1940 and that of his son Pierre in 1944, the estate – which was then largely run on a sharecropping basis – was on the verge of being sold. René Lafon took over the management in 1956, and the entire production has been bottled at the estate since 1961. Dominique Lafon succeeded his father in 1984 and gradually reclaimed the plots previously entrusted to sharecroppers, a process completed in 1993. Under his leadership, the estate adopted organic farming and then biodynamic practices between 1995 and 1998. Léa Lafon joined the estate in 2019 and Pierre Lafon in 2020; they now run the estate, with Jérôme Delassus as cellar master.

Parcelle & terroir

Montrachet

Montrachet is a physically delimited climat and Grand Cru appellation shared between Puligny-Montrachet and Chassagne-Montrachet. Its vines occupy a narrow, elongated strip, perpendicular to the slope, in a slight concavity in the lower part of the east- and southeast-facing hillside. The terroir combines red, clayey, calcareous, and very stony soils with Jurassic substrates differentiated by a fault. Its rapid drainage and nocturnal air drainage limit humidity and frost risks.

Vineyard commune
Puligny-Montrachet et Chassagne-Montrachet
Origin of the vineyard name
The name comes from "Mont Rachet," understood as "bald mountain" or "barren mountain," probably referring to the sparsely vegetated promontory overlooking the site; "râche" is a regional term designating ringworm or scurf.
Exposure
East to southeast
Altitude
250–270 m
Slope
Lower part of the hillside; strip perpendicular to the slope
Soil
Red, clayey, calcareous, very stony, and well-structured soils; locally lean and very stoney soils.
Subsoil and geology
Fault separating two sectors; Oxfordian marls rich in iron oxides over Bajocian/Callovian flaggy limestones, with locally highly fragmented Bathonian limestones.

Le domaine dans cette parcelle

Estate holding in the vineyard (ha)
0.320000 ha
Year the vineyard was acquired
1918
Vineyard holding status
owner
Indicative vine age
80% of the plot planted in 1953 and 20% in 1972.

Histoire de la parcelle

The cru is attested as early as the 13th century in the form "Mont Rachaz." It truly took off in the 18th century under the impetus of the Clermont-Montoison family, lords of Chagny, and Thomas Jefferson placed it on par with Chambertin in 1787. Puligny and Chassagne appended the name Montrachet to their village names in 1878. A Beaune court ruling defined the appellation of origin in 1921, and the Montrachet AOC was subsequently recognized on July 31, 1937.

Critiques professionnelles

Notes & cotations

The Wine Advocate 96/100
Reviewed by
Antonio Galloni
Published
Drink Date
2016

The 2009 Montrachet is just as glorious in bottle as it was from barrel. Layers of rich, expressive fruit caress the palate in this packed, deep wine. There is considerable power here, but the wine needs time in bottle to settle down a bit. Anticipated maturity: 2016+. Dominique Lafon's 2009s are just as stunning from bottle as they were when I tasted them in cask earlier this year. Lafon is one of the most thoughtful growers in Burgundy. Along with a group of his colleagues, Lafon is among the producers who has basically re-examined every aspect of the way he makes wine in response to the problem of premature oxidation. today's wines spend more time on their lees, but that is just one of many changes that have taken place here over the last few years. Except as noted, I tasted the 2009s from bottle. The 2009 Charmes, Perrieres and Montrachet were bottled in May, 2011. I also tasted all of the 2010s from barrel. The Meursault, Clos de la Barre and Goutte d-Or weren't showing well, while the Meursault premier crus and the Montrachet were all sublime. A Daniel Johnnes Selection, imported by Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

Jancis Robinson 18/20
Reviewed by
Alex Hunt MW
Published
Drink Date
2018 - 2026

This shows a noticeably more golden colour than the 2010. The nose, too, is in a completely different phase of maturity, with cream, pastry and caramel notes taking the lead. Decadent and gorgeous on the palate, with fresher fruit and brighter acid than the nose might imply, this does however display some stray alcohol. A wonderful wine, but one in which the heat of the vintage trumps the breed of the vineyard.

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