Domaine Comtes Lafon Volnay Santenots du Milieu 1990 Magnum (150cl) ETA CA


The Domaine des Comtes Lafon Volnay Santenots du Milieu 1990 is a red Burgundy wine from the Volnay appellation, crafted from 100% Pinot Noir in the Santenots parcel. The Wine Advocate awards it 94/100 and recommends drinking from 2013 to 2025. The publication describes an expressive bouquet dominated by black plum, raspberry, and orange, followed by a broad, sensual, and complete palate.
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La bouteille proposée

Size
Magnum (150cl)
Label Condition
Highly Damaged
Fill Level
Perfect
Capsule Condition
Damaged Capsule

Identité du vin

Couleur
Red
Pays
France
Région
Bourgogne
Appellation
Volnay
Producteur / Domaine
Domaine des Comtes Lafon
Parcelle / Cru
Santenots (Volnay)
Millésime
1990

Cépage et assemblage

Grape Variety
100% Pinot Noir
Domaine

Domaine des Comtes Lafon

The Domaine des Comtes Lafon is a family-run estate based in Meursault, in the heart of the Côte de Beaune. Its vineyards are spread across Meursault, Volnay, Monthélie and Chassagne-Montrachet, notably including plots in Meursault’s Premier Cru vineyards and Montrachet’s Grand Cru vineyard. The estate is currently run by Léa and Pierre Lafon, whilst Jérôme Delassus is listed as cellar master.

Owner
GFA du Domaine des Comtes Lafon (famille Lafon)
Maître de chais
Jérôme Delassus

Histoire du domaine

The estate’s history is linked to Jules Lafon, a native of Tarn-et-Garonne, who was transferred to Dijon in 1887 as part of his role at the Administration of Registration, Estates and Stamps. In 1894, he married Marie Boch, who came from a family of wine-growers and merchants in Meursault, marking the start of his involvement in the village’s wine industry. Having become a lawyer, Jules Lafon was granted the title of Papal Count in 1918, which would give the estate its name. He gradually acquired several Meursault Premier Crus, including Genevrières, Perrières and Charmes, as well as a plot in Montrachet in 1918. As mayor of Meursault, he played a part in reviving the Paulée de Meursault in 1923, before giving up his legal practice in 1931 to devote himself to the estate. Following his death in 1940 and that of his son Pierre in 1944, the estate – which was then largely run on a sharecropping basis – was on the verge of being sold. René Lafon took over the management in 1956, and the entire production has been bottled at the estate since 1961. Dominique Lafon succeeded his father in 1984 and gradually reclaimed the plots previously entrusted to sharecroppers, a process completed in 1993. Under his leadership, the estate adopted organic farming and then biodynamic practices between 1995 and 1998. Léa Lafon joined the estate in 2019 and Pierre Lafon in 2020; they now run the estate, with Jérôme Delassus as cellar master.

Parcelle & terroir

Santenots (Volnay)

Santenots is a collective climat located in the commune of Meursault, immediately south of Volnay. For red wines, it officially brings together Les Santenots Blancs, Les Plures, Les Santenots du Milieu, Les Santenots du Dessous, and part of Les Vignes Blanches, which can claim Volnay Premier Cru Santenots. This particularity explains why the name Volnay appears on wines from vines physically planted in Meursault. The general data of the appellation describe an escarpment facing mainly east, with Jurassic marly-limestone soils that vary according to topographical position, without making it possible to attribute them uniformly to the entire collective climat.

Vineyard commune
Meursault
Origin of the vineyard name
Two hypotheses are reported: the Latin "sentes", evoking briars or thorny bushes, or "sentu", meaning path, in reference to the tracks descending from Auxey-Duresses.

Histoire de la parcelle

Santenots was already regularly distinguished among the best climats of Volnay in 19th-century wine classifications. The AOC Volnay was recognized on September 9, 1937, and the list of climats authorized to bear the "premier cru" mention was established in 1943. The regulations consecrated the historical usage allowing the red wines of this sector of Meursault to claim Volnay-Santenots.

Critiques professionnelles

Notes & cotations

The Wine Advocate 94/100
Reviewed by
Neal Martin
Published
Drink Date
2013 - 2025

The 1990 Volnay Santenots has a typically showy, fruit-driven, almost precocious bouquet with a surfeit of dark plum, raspberry, orange sorbet and glycerine scents that soar from the glass and never let up. The palate has more volume and more viscosity than the 1989: very sensual and quite modern in style when you compare it to the 1985 or 1978. But there is a riveting sense of completeness here, a wine that will not let you down from start to finish and, moreover, you can envisage it continuing to perform at a top level for another 20 years. Drink now-2025+. Tasted September 2013.

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